Flo – Go with the Flo https://www.gowiththeflo.asia Through Asia and beyond Fri, 02 Feb 2024 06:35:25 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.5 https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/cropped-Icon-Square-150x150.jpg Flo – Go with the Flo https://www.gowiththeflo.asia 32 32 Qingdao: German architecture https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/qingdao-german-architecture/ https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/qingdao-german-architecture/#comments Thu, 25 Jan 2024 14:01:13 +0000 http://www.gowiththeflo.asia/?p=244 With a couple of friends I took advantage of the long weekend over May 1st recently and embarked on a trip to Chinese city which is slightly less known in Europe: Qingdao. The name probably does not ring a bell, especially the way it is spelt. However, once I tell people that this is where the Tsingtao beer comes from, the bell rings.

The beer was founded in 1903 during the German colonial times. The area was part of a German leased territory from 1898 until 1914 (with the outbreak of the First World War the Japanese swiftly occupied the territory).

Apart from the beer, the German heritage is evident in the architecture of many buildings. In the old town you fill at some points as if you are walking through a Southern German town, only that all signs are in Chinese. I thought that the city has done a reasonably well job at preserving its heritage and while I haven’t visited any other Chinese cities, I am sure it feels unique.

Below are some impressions of our walk around town:

The former Governor's Palace was consequently used as guest house for many statesmen

The former Governor’s Palace was consequently used as guest house for many statesmen

Cute little houses around the historic district

Cute little houses around the historic district

The St. Michael's Cathedral

The St. Michael’s Cathedral

The St. Michael’s Cathedral (or Zhejian Road Catholic Church) was constructed in 1934 after the areas was again returned to Chinese control.

Inside the St. Michael's Cathedral

Inside the St. Michael’s Cathedral

View from the beach towards the shore

View from the beach towards the shore

The buildings along the shore remind me of some towns in Northern Germany – and so did the weather!

Just as a comparison, this is what the Central Business District of Qingdao looks like (pictured is the May 4th monument):

QIngdao Central Business District

QIngdao Central Business District

Quite a contrast, isn’t it!

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A normal Saturday afternoon in SG – with tanks (NDP Rehearsal) https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/an-normal-saturday-afternoon-in-sg-with-thanks-ndp-rehearsal/ https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/an-normal-saturday-afternoon-in-sg-with-thanks-ndp-rehearsal/#respond Tue, 23 Jan 2024 04:21:49 +0000 http://www.gowiththeflo.asia/?p=415 Yesterday afternoon in Singapore. We are casually enjoying the beautiful weather by BBQing with a gorgeous view towards the National Stadium..:

National Stadium

National Stadium

When we started noticing slightly unusual traffic on Nicoll Highway:

Hmm...

Hmm…

..kind of looks like... tanks?!

..kind of looks like… tanks?!

...yep...definitely tanks.

…yep…definitely tanks.

You ask why there are tanks driving around downtown Singapore on a sunny Saturday afternoon? Singapore is turning 50 this year. As every year, the Singapore Armed Forces will put up a great show at the National Day Parade (NDP). Except this year it will be bigger. Much, much bigger. So there rehearsals now every Saturday until August 9th.

Everything is taken from the baracks and shown off.

Everything is taken from the baracks and shown off.

 

Impressive!

Impressive!

Also part of the show: small boats...

Also part of the show: small boats…

...and slightly bigger boats.

…and slightly bigger boats.

A couple of hours later we’ve moved on to a different location to watch the sunset on this beautiful day:

View towards the Central Business District

View towards the Central Business District

When the Singapore Air Force also started their rehearsal:

The flag being carried by a Chinook

The flag being carried by a Chinook

Flying past Marina Bay

Flying past Marina Bay

Followed by a couple of Apaches

Followed by a couple of Apaches

Next up: the RSAF Black Knights (F-16s) along with a squadron of F-16s

Next up: the RSAF Black Knights (F-16s) along with a squadron of F-16s

F-16s

F-16s

Flying past us

Flying past us

Close-up of a Black Knight

Close-up of a Black Knight (RSAF aerobatics team)

C-130 along with two Fokker 50s

C-130 along with two Fokker 50s

Last flypast: KC-135R with a G550 behind it, escorted by F-5S Interceptors

Last flypast: KC-135R with a G550 behind it, escorted by F-5S Interceptors

Flying off into the sunset

Flying off into the sunset

It will sure be an impressive show on National Day! There will be more rehearsals, so try and catch some of the action!

 

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A Weekend in Baghdad / Iraq https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/a-weekend-in-baghdad-iraq/ https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/a-weekend-in-baghdad-iraq/#respond Mon, 06 Mar 2023 20:18:49 +0000 https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/?p=2957 So… it has been a while since my last post. Close to three years. But I hope to get back into the groove of blogging every now and then. Here’s a recap of my most recent trip.

Similar to my weekend in Eritrea, I was faced with some expiring miles. Turkish Airlines was running a promotion at the time, and I ended up booking a return business class flight to Baghdad for 50k miles. Over the next couple of weeks I spent quite some time reading up on the current situation in the country and went through several trip reports of travelers who had recently visited.

While most embassies discourage non-essential travel to Iraq, the country started issuing hassle-free visa on arrival to tourists in 2021. The security situation seems to have improved over the past years and cannot be compared anymore to the previous decade.

I’ve had Iraq on my list for some time. Kurdistan in northern Iraq has been accessible to travelers for quite some time and for the past year or so the number of visitors to Federal Iraq (i.e. Baghdad, Basra etc) has increased as well. One point which has kept me from visiting is the fact that a travel history to Iraq makes you ineligible for ESTA when traveling to the USA. While that might have changed recently (conflicting info online), I got myself a visa for the USA last year.

Air connectivity to Iraq has improved and Turkish Airlines along nowadays flies direct from Istanbul to Erbil, Sulaymaniyah, Kirkuk, Baghdad and Basra.

Last call Baghdad
Last call Baghdad

I arrived on one of the up to three daily flights from Istanbul (IST) – there are also two daily flights from Istanbul’s Sabiha Gökcen Airport. It is a brutal red-eye, departing at 2am and arriving just before 5am.

The visa-on-arrival is really straight forward. There’s a small desk in the immigration area where you deposit your passport and fill out a form. They wait for all passengers from the same flight and then proceed with the passports to their office. We ended up waiting around 45mins. Alongside myself there were some businessmen from Europe, a bunch of archeologists from Austria and a Scottish YouTuber. Once they return with the passports, they call your name and you hand over 77 USD in cash. Unlike other countries, you don’t pay at a separate bank counter but rather just hand over cash to the immigration official. No receipts are handed out. I then proceeded through immigration without any issues.

Iraqi Visa on Arrival Form
Iraqi Visa on Arrival Form
Waiting at immigration for my visa
Waiting at immigration for my visa

Getting from the airport to the city is a bit unusual compared to other countries. I guess still because of the security situation, the general public is not allowed to drive to the airport and instead only minivans from/to Abbas Ibn Firnas Square (name after the 9th century inventory who is said to have experimented with flight) can drive to the airport. And a single taxi company, AlMumayaz. They charge 50k Iraqi Dinar (IQD), the equivalent of 33 EUR to anywhere in the city. The Scottish YouTuber had already booked a taxi and kindly let me ride into the city with him. By the time I was in the hotel, it was shortly after 7am and my hotel (Noor Land Hotel) kindly let me check-in so I could catch some sleep.

I arrived on a Friday and hence prayer day. I read on several blogs that Old Baghdad would be busiest on a Fridays. Unfortunately it was almost deserted. I later found out that the night prior was the start of a religious holiday (I’m guessing Lailat al Miraj; Prophet’s Ascension) and hence most people stayed home.

The old town is easily walkable and includes sights such as Al-Mutanabbi Street, Shabandar Café, Qishleh Clock, Safafeer Market, Mustansiriya Madrasah, Baghdadi Museum and the Abbasid Palace.

Mutanabbi Street (شارع المتنبي) is a street lined with bookstores, both indoors and outdoors. It is considered the center of the Baghdad literacy and intellectual community. On my first day it was really quiet but I returned again on Saturday and it was thriving.

Mutanabbi Street
Mutanabbi Street
Mutanabbi Street
Mutanabbi Street

In the surrounding area you get a feel for what the vibe must have been decades ago. Many buildings are in decay though unfortunately.

Historic Baghdad
Historic Baghdad
Historic Baghdad
Historic Baghdad
Historic Baghdad
Historic Baghdad

I stopped for tea at Mdalal Cafe, a traditional tea house. Here I experience something I would encounter again several times: the waiter refused payment. One of the rare places on earth where tourists are still so exotic, that they are invited for drinks. (regularly, a tea would cost around 500 IQD (35 cents).

Mdalal Cafe
Mdalal Cafe
Hafiz Alqadhi Square
Hafiz Alqadhi Square

I stopped for grape juice on Al Rasheed Street at Hajji Zabala (عصير حجي زبالة), where again they wouldn’t let me pay.

Hajji Zabala juice
Hajji Zabala juice
And some more tea
And some more tea
Haydar-Khana Mosque (جامع الحيدرخانة)
Haydar-Khana Mosque (جامع الحيدرخانة)

Close by is also the Mustansiriyah Madrasah, a university dating back to the 13th century. Unfortunately it was closed when I was there.

Mustansiriyah Madrasah
Mustansiriyah Madrasah
Shop in Historic Baghdad
Shop in Historic Baghdad

Also worth a visit is the Safafeer Copper market. The number of true coppersmith seems to be dwindling but nevertheless the alley has a very unique and authentic feel and smell.

Safafeer Copper market
Safafeer Copper market
Safafeer Copper market
Safafeer Copper market
Safafeer Copper market
Safafeer Copper market

Also within walking distance is the The Church of the Holy Mother of God, an Armenian church. There is an estimated 10’000 to 13’000 Armenians in Iraq, half of which are said to be in Baghdad. It used to be a much higher number but after the fall of Saddam Hussein, the community had come increasingly under attack.

The Church of the Holy Mother of God
The Church of the Holy Mother of God
The Church of the Holy Mother of God
The Church of the Holy Mother of God

There are several Catholic churches in downtown Baghdad as well. Here’s the Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus (كنيسة قلب يسوع الأقدس) which I walked past.

Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus (كنيسة قلب يسوع الأقدس)
Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus (كنيسة قلب يسوع الأقدس)

At some point it was time for lunch and I took a Careem (the Middle Eastern version of Uber) back towards my hotel and enjoyed some food at Kibbeh Al-Baghdadi Restaurant.

They don’t have a menu and only serve one dish: Kuba. Iraqi Kuba or Kibbeh are rice and potato balls filled with mince meat. I give it a five star rating.

Kibbeh Al-Baghdadi Restaurant
Kibbeh Al-Baghdadi Restaurant

I spent the afternoon catching up on sleep and wandering around the neighborhood I was staying in, Karada. An upscale neighborhood, my hotel was next to the local BMW dealership and several Western fashion stores like Calvin Klein.

Iraqi Dinar
Iraqi Dinar

I stopped by a co-working space called The Station. It could have been in Dubai or even somewhere in Europe with a young crowd working relentlessly on their laptops.

The Station
The Station

For dinner I followed the recommendation of many previous travelers and headed to Darbunah. You can tell someone has poured a lot of love into the place. It is located in a lovely building and serves most of the traditional Iraqi dishes (I found the cuisine to be quite similar to Turkish food).

Dinner at Darbunah
Dinner at Darbunah

I started the second day with a run along the Tigris river. It was the only time I didn’t feel entirely safe; on one hand because of the traffic (runners are not exactly a common sight in Baghdad for drivers) and on the other hand because of stray dogs who apparently aren’t very runner friendly either.

I then hailed a cab from the street and using my friend Google Translate managed to tell the driver that I wanted to head to Taq Kasra (إيوان كسرى), about 45mins south. We quickly settled on 40k IQD (26 EUR) and started driving south.

Taq Kasra is a 6th century Persian monument and is the only remaining visible remnant of Ctesiphon, a former royal capital. Unfortunately it is currently closed for restoration (I thought I had done my homework but it shows that Iraqi tourist resources are not that vast online). But it wouldn’t be Iraq if the security guard didn’t tell us how we could walk around the fence and get a picture from the other side.

By the way, the archway is the second largest single-span vault of unreinforced brickwork in the world.

Taq Kasra
Taq Kasra
Taq Kasra
Taq Kasra

From there we drove back towards Baghdad and got caught in a bad traffic jam on the highway. Due to construction work, the three lane highway was reduced to a single lane. That didn’t seem to bother Iraqis too much and the two lanes where just moved by a few meters to the right by driving through the actual desert.

I asked the driver to drop me off at the Al-Shaheed Monument (Martyr’s Monument; نصب الشهيد). Built in 1983, it was one of Saddam’s projects to show off his power and was meant to commemorate soldiers who fell during the eight-year Iran-Iraq war. Its significance has since expanded to include all Iraqi martyrs. Quite an impressive sight as you approach it.

Al-Shaheed Monument
Al-Shaheed Monument
Al-Shaheed Monument
Al-Shaheed Monument
Al-Shaheed Monument
Al-Shaheed Monument

It was time for lunch and I ended up going for some falafel in a random hole in the wall which was well frequented. A decent meal for 1’000 IQD (60 cents):

Falafel
Falafel

Before dinner I walked past a liquor store (there are quite few of them). I was surprised by the broad assortment of European beers but decided to try a local Iraqi beer; Maxi Beer. It comes as 5%, 8% or 10% version; I wasn’t feeling too adventurous and gave the 5% version a try. Nothing to write home about.

Iraqi Beer
Iraqi Beer

For dinner I headed to Dijlah Village, a recently opened shopping mall right by the Tigris river. It really could have been in Dubai with affluent Iraqi families enjoying a weekend night out in of the the mall’s upscale restaurants.

Cocktail & Tennis at Dijlah Village
Cocktail & Tennis at Dijlah Village

And with that, my time in Baghdad was coming to an end. I ordered a taxi in the late evening to bring me back to the airport. There are several security checks with your luggage getting sniffed by dogs twice before you enter the terminal building. Once inside, it is an airport experience just like another other and shortly after 2am I was back in the air, headed to Istanbul.

So what is my conclusion from my slightly unusual weekend destination? A fascinating city which must be the gateway to an even more fascinating country. There are many sights of historical and religious importance that I have yet to see. The tourist numbers are still so low that you get to visit these sites with a very authentic feel and without hordes of tourists (yet). At the same time, the tourist infrastructure of course doesn’t really exist yet.

I really hope the country continues on the same, somewhat promising, trajectory towards benefiting from its natural resources and letting the general population prosper from it.

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Finally Flying Again – Off to Kyiv https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/finally-flying-again-off-to-kyiv/ https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/finally-flying-again-off-to-kyiv/#comments Thu, 30 Jul 2020 19:47:47 +0000 http://www.gowiththeflo.asia/?p=2886 2020 caught us all by surprise. When news hit in January 2020 that a new virus had hit the People’s Republic of China, few folks would have predicted that just two months later international borders would be sealed off to a large extent. Traveling became almost impossible and starting April, only very few countries still maintained open borders.

Fast forward to June and gradually the tourism industry has started to recovery (slowly). Domestic tourism all of a sudden has gained popularity again. On one hand because travelers feel safer in their own country but on the other hand also because rules and regulations on international travel had gotten so difficult to keep track off. Why book a trip now, if you don’t know what the entry regulations will be in a month from now or requirements to quarantine upon your return.

I had been following news regularly and after two trips to Germany from Switzerland, was ready for my first trip outside Schengen. Ukraine had recently opened up again. After researching government websites (in Ukrainian), it finally looked like Swiss residents were on the “green” list and could enter without problems. But the amount of time one has to invest to figure out what is really the case, will mean tourism will continue to be slow as not everyone is inclined to invest so much time on research. Just a few days before my departure, the Ukraine had put up a neat website summarizing all the information of the various involved state agencies.

Maidan Nezalezhnosti
Maidan Nezalezhnosti

Kyiv’s Boryspil International Airport was my destination and was eerily quiet upon my arrival on a Friday afternoon. Thanks to ride-hailing apps I was off to my AirBnB near the Independence Square very quickly. By now I usually prefer a (semi)-professional AirBnB apartment over a hotel – wider choice on location and no endless hallways to walk down.

Upon recommendation of a friend I had tried to book a Chernobyl Tour. But one downside to barely seeing any tourists in the city is that I also appeared the only one interested in such a tour hence it did not happen.

The city center is easily walkable. The Independence Square (Maidan Nezalezhnosti), which you might remember from 2014’s deadly protests which eventually toppled the government, was the start of my afternoon tour exploring the center.

Maidan Nezalezhnosti
Maidan Nezalezhnosti

Not far away is Lyuteranska Street which has been renamed numerous times over the past century.

Lyuteranska Street
Lyuteranska Street
Kyiv
Kyiv
Kyiv
Kyiv
Government ad regarding COVID-19
Government ad regarding COVID-19

After a short walk I reached Mariyinsky Palace, the ceremonial residence of the president.

Mariyinsky Palace
Mariyinsky Palace

Just behind it is a large park which also houses the Dynamo Kyiv football stadium and offers great view across the Dnieper River.

Devil's Bridge
Devil’s Bridge
View across the Dnieper River
View across the Dnieper River

Around the corner is the Friendship of Nations Monument. It was constructed in the 1980s in honor of the 60th birthday of the USSR and remains a controversial symbol today of Ukraine’s troubled relationship with Russia.

People's Friendship Arch
People’s Friendship Arch

Not much further is St. Michael’s Monastery, a still very much active monastery. It was constructed in the centuries leading up to the 18th century and partially destroyed by the Soviets but rebuilt following Ukrainian independence.

St. Michael's Golden-Domed Monastery
St. Michael’s Golden-Domed Monastery

If you’re up for some more golden domes, just walk up the road to St. Sophia’s Cathedral, Ukraine’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was named after Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia and while construction started in the 11th century, it took several centuries to complete.

Saint Sophia's Cathedral
Saint Sophia’s Cathedral
Saint Sophia's Cathedral Bell Tower
Saint Sophia’s Cathedral Bell Tower

After getting some rest, I continued my pleasant walk and eventually reached St Andrew’s Church. It apparently has no bells because legend has it that its noise would cause the left side of the city to flood.

St Andrew's Church
St Andrew’s Church

A bit further I reached the Square of Contracts, an important part of the Podil merchant neighborhood.

Square of Contracts
Square of Contracts

That was enough walking for the day and I took the subway to Hydropark to spend the rest of the afternoon at Hydropark, a recreational island with lots of public beaches and restaurants. It was a perfect July afternoon with not a cloud in the sky and crowds getting ready for the weekend.

Kyiv's subway is deep underground, probably to double up as bomb shelter
Kyiv’s subway is deep underground, probably to double up as bomb shelter
Hydropark subway station
Hydropark subway station
Пляж "Венеція"
Пляж “Венеція”

My dinner destination that night was the Podil neighborhood at the lovely Тісто, сир і тітка Белла restaurant specializing in Italian cuisines (I was caught off guard when every employee greeted me with “buona sera”).

Тісто, сир і тітка Белла
Тісто, сир і тітка Белла
Street Art in Podil
Street Art in Podil

The next day I made sure to visit the mighty Motherland Monument, a 62m tall stainless steel statue looking across the river. Just for scale, the sword is 16m tall. While Ukraine has been trying to get rid of Soviet symbols and statues, despite a decision to remove the Soviet emblem on the shield of the statue, it is still there and visible.

Motherland Monument
Motherland Monument

The statue is part of the National Museum of the History of Ukraine in the Second World War complex which also contains sculptures depicting the Ukrainian people’s fight against the Nazi invasion.

National Museum of the History of Ukraine in the Second World War
National Museum of the History of Ukraine in the Second World War

After lunch I visited the Besarabsky Market, an indoor market housed in the building dating back to 1910. It was eerily quiet, maybe because the time of day but maybe also because it might have become a bit touristy and tourists simply were not around.

Besarabsky Market
Besarabsky Market
Besarabsky Market
Besarabsky Market

It was quite hot once again and time to head to the beach and cool off. I walked across the pedestrian bridge to Trukhanov Island, another very nice beach right in the center (or at least almost) of the city.

Pedestrian Bridge
Pedestrian Bridge
Beach on Trukhanov Island
Beach on Trukhanov Island
Trukhanov Island
Trukhanov Island

If you’re on Kyiv during a weekend, make sure to stroll up and down Khreshchatyk during the evening to soak in the atmopshere of families out and about.

Khreshchatyk
Khreshchatyk
Khreshchatyk
Khreshchatyk

And with that my weekend in Kyiv was almost over again already. A city that is truly worth a visit and I wish I had more time to make this a start of a tour around Ukraine as there seems to be so much more to discover.

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A Weekend on Madeira https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/a-weekend-on-madeira/ https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/a-weekend-on-madeira/#comments Sun, 14 Jun 2020 13:51:01 +0000 http://www.gowiththeflo.asia/?p=2868 Note: I took this trip in February 2020, just about a month before travel came to a standstill in Europe.

Back in July 2019 I was casually browsing the web when I stumbled upon an incredible air fare to Madeira. You know, one of those offers where you actually feel kind of guilty for it being so cheap but at the same time you pull the trigger because even if you can’t make the trip, the sunk costs are not that high. Fast forward to about nine months later and I found myself at the airport ready to board the four hours flight to Funchal on Madeira. After an uneventful flight I found myself at the island’s only airport and once again was thankful for Schengen and its lack of border controls as I was on the road with a rental car just 20 minutes after leaving the plane.

Approach to Funchal Airport
Approach to Funchal Airport

I had opted for an AirBnB right in the city center, a good choice in hindsight. While parking can be difficult (or expensive), having been there off-season, it was nice to be able to choose from a variety of restaurants.

Funchal is the island’s capital and only proper city. The mild climate in winter months draws many visitors and the well-kept historic city center together with the seafront make for some beautiful walks. As the city (and the entire island) is very hilly, there’s a famous cable car that will take you for an obnoxious fee up to the botanic gardens.

Funchal Downtown
Funchal Downtown
Igreja de São João Evangelista on the left on Praço do Municipio
Igreja de São João Evangelista on the left on Praço do Municipio
Banco de Portugal on Av. Arriaga
Banco de Portugal on Av. Arriaga
Palácio de São Lourenço (Residência Oficial do Representante da República para a Região Autónoma da Madeira)
Residência Oficial do Representante da República para a Região Autónoma da Madeira
Madeira's most famous citizen
Madeira’s most famous citizen
Sunset seen from Barreirinha Bar
Sunset seen from Barreirinha Bar
Dinner at O Tasco
Dinner at O Tasco

As Madeira is famous for its landscape and has attracted lots of trail runners over the past years, that ended up as the main draw for my visit. Each morning I’d use the WikiLoc app to find a trail run in a different part of the island, run for a while and then find a good spot for lunch before heading back to the city for an afternoon stroll, sunset drinks and dinner.

The first day took me to the Northeastern part of the island. Setting off in the village of Porto da Cruz, a beautiful trial took me along the cost to Boca do Risco without a soul in sight. Ah, the joys of traveling off-season.

Praia da Maiata near Porto da Cruz
Praia da Maiata near Porto da Cruz
Houses near Porto da Cruz
Houses near Porto da Cruz
Single trail for endless kilometers
Single trail for endless kilometers
View from Boca da Risco
View from Boca da Risco

Porto da Cruz has a nice couple of beachfront restaurants where I enjoyed the island’s signature dish, espada com banana (scabbard fish with banana).

Lunch in Porto da Cruz
Lunch in Porto da Cruz

From there it was a short drive to Ponta de São Lourenço where I met up with friends to walk around the Eastern tip of the island which hosts a nature reserve.

Ponta de São Lourenço
Ponta de São Lourenço

The second day took me to the Southwestern part of the island, to 600 meters above sea level at a village called Prazeres. The island’s roads are in a remarkable condition and while the hilly terrain does not make it easy to construct roads, there must have been a lot of investment including tunnels.

Views from above Prazeres
Views from above Prazeres
Downhill race in the forests above Prazeres
Downhill race in the forests above Prazeres

On the way back I stopped at the Cabo Girão Skywalk, a glass platform where you get a view straight down to the ocean. One of the few places where I met other tourists during the weekend.

Cabo Girão Skywalk
Cabo Girão Skywalk
View towards Funchal
View towards Funchal

After two relaxing days with lots of sunshine it was time to head back. I guess I got quite lucky with the weather considering the time of the year. But at the same time, I visited at the time when the island is about as empty as it can get. Apparently it gets quite busy from spring onwards. While you can escape to the countless trails in the countryside for hiking, I can imagine it won’t be as pleasant in the cities and villages when it gets busy.

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Malta – Truly Mediterranean https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/malta-truly-mediterranean/ https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/malta-truly-mediterranean/#respond Sun, 23 Feb 2020 06:30:31 +0000 http://www.gowiththeflo.asia/?p=2827 January in Northern Europe – the Christmas excitement is over but the weather is still far from good. Perfect timing to soak in a bit of sun in the Mediterranean. While I have no (current) ambitions of ever visiting every country on the planet, I do make an effort to visit a new country (or two) every year. After Saudi Arabia recently, the year was off to a decent start with another new country in January – Malta.

The EU’s smallest country by population with just below half a million, Malta, has a unique history due to its location. Over the centuries it has been governed by all kinds of foreign invaders. Romans, Goths, Arabs, Normans, Brits and many others all left their mark on the island nation one way or another, leaving it with a fascinating mix of culture, architecture and language.

The main island of Malta is easily accessible from many European cities with direct flights. Being a member of the Schengen area means you’re out of the airport in no time. Using the local ride-hailing app Cool we were in downtown Valletta within an hour of touchdown for just 11 EUR.

There are a couple of options where to base yourself. Keep in mind, we visited in January with temperatures ranging between 7 and 20 degrees Celsius, so beach was not really an option. Also, the island is so small that there’s no point really in road-tripping but rather rent a car or just use the easy-to-use public buses. We opted for the capital city of Valletta. Great for city exploring in colder winter months but maybe less so during hot summer months?

On our first day we drove over to Mdina, just 20 minutes away. The fortified city used to be Malta’s capital for several centuries. Apparently still 300 people live here. While we were mostly by ourselves, I don’t want to imagine what Mdina looks like in peak tourist season.

Mdina City Gate
Mdina City Gate
Mdina City Wall
Mdina City Wall
Mdina
Mdina
St. Paul's Cathedral
St. Paul’s Cathedral
St. Roque's Chapel
St. Roque’s Chapel
Mdina
Mdina
View from Mdina
View from Mdina
Mdina
Mdina
Mdina police station
Mdina police station

Mdina is next to the town of Rabbat (“suburb”) which was much more lively. In one square actually very lively as the Socialist Party had elections for their new leader that day after the Prime Minister had announced his resignation.

We again ordered a car and drove towards what is known as the “Three Cities”, Birgu, Senglea and Cospicua. They are situated just opposite the bay of Valletta, from where they can easily be reached by ferry. The sun was out, it was 15 degrees in January, what more could you ask for? We wandered around Senglea, had lunch and then decided to head back to Valletta to relax for a while.

View from Senglea towards Birgu
View towards Valletta from Senglea
View from Senglea towards Birgu
View from Senglea towards Birgu
View from Senglea towards Birgu
View from Senglea towards Birgu
Senglea
Senglea

The ferry is just a short ride across the bay. Back in Valletta it stops very close to the elevator that takes you up to the Upper Barrakka Gardens from where you have a beautiful view across the bay towards the Three Cities.

Maltese Mail Box
Maltese Mail Box
Elevator
Elevator
View towards Three Cities
View towards Three Cities
View towards Three Cities
View towards Three Cities
Castille Palace
Castille Palace
Lots of stairs to be found in Valletta
Lots of stairs to be found in Valletta
Unfortunately I forgot which church this was (there are lots in Valletta)
Unfortunately I forgot which church this was (there are lots in Valletta)

We had a drink at a quirky bar called Gugar Hangout before having dinner at one of Malta’s finer restaurants, The Harbour Club. We were the only guests for the entire evening, a clear sign that January is the lowest of low seasons in Malta.

This must be packed in summer
This must be packed in summer
City Gate
City Gate

We had another half day of Sunday, which just happened to be the big weekly market day in a fisherman’s village, Marsaxlokk Open Market. There are very regular direct busses from Valletta’s bus station to the market and within around 20 minutes we were there. We expected a market with lots of local produce. While there were lots of local people, it was mostly cheap fashion from China with a few local produce stalls thrown in between. While the village is cute, we probably would not return just for this market.

City Wall Valletta
City Wall Valletta
Marsaxlokk
Marsaxlokk
Marsaxlokk
Marsaxlokk
Malta has very good capers
Malta has very good capers

Sunday around noon we had to head back to the airport (again it was easy to catch a local bus) for our flight back home.

We really liked Malta. There is lots more to discover, an island with its very own distinct vibe, culture and language. And when days are rainy and cold in Northern Europe, it might just be a place not too far away to catch some sun.

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Jeddah – Saudi Arabia is open for Tourism https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/jeddah-saudi-arabia-is-open-for-tourism/ https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/jeddah-saudi-arabia-is-open-for-tourism/#comments Sat, 25 Jan 2020 16:11:26 +0000 http://www.gowiththeflo.asia/?p=2780 For a very long time the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA) has been notoriously difficult for tourists to visit. Unless you had a business invitation or intended to visit for religious reasons, you had practically no chance to enter the country. After a brief exemption for a racecar event about 1.5 years ago, KSA finally opened up to tourists with a big bang in Q3 2019. Countless social media folks were flown in to promote the country with shiny photos around the country.

Jeddah Waterfront
Jeddah Waterfront

Not impressed by social media but rather driven by my curiosity in a country that has not only not depended on tourism but actively prevented it, I took up an opportunity to visit. KSA is a country that doesn’t necessarily enjoy a good reputation abroad. Most of the public perception (at least in Europe) is driven by topics such as human rights issues, the dependency on oil, gender inequality and military intervention in the region. While Saudis are free to travel abroad, interaction in Europe is seldom and generally construed by skepticism.

Jeddah Waterfront
Jeddah Waterfront

Applying for a visa was very straightforward. Fill out an online application, pay the fee and you’re good to go. The only challenge was that the required photo had to be 200 by 200 pixels. Not 198 by 202 pixels. I was approved within an hour. The check-in agent didn’t seem to have seen many tourist visas before but after a bit of typing, I was allowed to board.

Jeddah Waterfront
Jeddah Waterfront

I arrived at the shiny new Terminal 1 in Jeddah. The airport opens in phases and is breathtakingly beautiful. I thought it was interesting that without exception, all immigration officials were female. No questions asked and I was stamped into the country, accompanied by a friendly “Welcome to Saudi”.

Jeddah Terminal 1
Jeddah Terminal 1

Jeddah is KSA’s commercial center and second-largest city with a population of around four million. It’s location at the Red Sea and vicinity to the Holy City of Mecca means it has a history of centuries with traders and pilgrims. It is considered to be one of the more open-minded cities in the Kingdom.

International Fast Food is everywhere in Jeddah
International Fast Food is everywhere in Jeddah

What I quickly learned when researching accommodation was how vast the city is. At least by my standards, I could not make out a “city center” (apart from the historic city center). And orientating myself by the public transportation grid was not an option because… there is no public transportation. The city of four million seems to have a grand total of nine bus lines. So yea, you’ll need a car or rely on ride-hailing apps (which is what I did).

Due to Jeddah’s location by the Red Sea, the city boasts a sprawling beach road. Both in the mornings and evenings, locals enjoy cycling, walking or hanging out at the countless coffee shops or restaurants. I also had the impression this was the area to see or be seen and show off your car or motorcycle. Overall I’d say around every fifth car was driven by a woman. The city did a nice job developing this part of town.

The highlight of Jeddah from a tourist’s perspective is most likely “Al-Balad” (“the town”), the city’s historic center. Granted UNESCO World Heritage status in 2014, Al-Balad was somewhat abandoned and neglected once the oil boom kicked in. Saudis moved to other parts of town with wider roads for bigger cars. Slowly, the decaying houses are being renovated and prepared as a tourist attraction.

Baab Makkah - entry gate to Al-Balad
Baab Makkah – entry gate to Al-Balad

Wandering aimlessly through the alleys is fascinating and reminiscent of a totally different era compared to today’s oil-fueled Saudi economy.

Al-Balad
Al-Balad

In fact, Al-Balad is so picturesque, it has already attracted its fair share of Instagram-people. By fair share I mean I came across three European ladies posing extensively for the ‘Gram.

Al-Balad
Al-Balad
Al-Balad
Al-Balad
Al-Balad
Al-Balad
Saudis seem to like cats
Saudis seem to like cats
Al-Balad
Al-Balad
Al Ma'amar Mosque
Al Ma’amar Mosque
Al-Balad
Al-Balad
Main Market
Main Market
Dates, Dates, Dates
Dates, Dates, Dates
Al-Balad
Al-Balad
Al-Shafei Mosque
Al-Shafei Mosque
Al-Balad
Al-Balad
Al-Balad
Al-Balad

I continued towards Sharafiyah, Jeddah’s Little India. While I did get superb Chicken Biryani at a Pakistani restaurant, the area was otherwise not too exciting. Maybe I was just there at the wrong time.

Sharafiyah, Jeddah's Little India
Sharafiyah, Jeddah’s Little India

While it was a very short stay in the Kingdom, it was interesting to get a first hand impression. I encountered Saudi people to be very friendly. Contrary to my experience in other Gulf states, all ride-sharing drivers were locals. All inquired where I was from and welcomed me to their country.

Western brands in one of the countless shopping malls
Western brands in one of the countless shopping malls

But the country is still far from becoming a tourist hotspot, at least for Western travelers. While there are numerous spots worth visiting in terms of nature and historic sights, while concerning news keep emerging KSA, I could imagine tourist arrivals won’t skyrocket in the short term.

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Matera – the Underground City https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/matera-the-underground-city/ https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/matera-the-underground-city/#respond Sat, 25 Jan 2020 15:38:22 +0000 http://www.gowiththeflo.asia/?p=2785 Our 10 day Puglia trip was nearing its end. After a relaxing couple of days in and around Ostuni, it was time for our final stop. After a drive through lovely Martina Franca and a stop in Mottola for lunch, we arrived mid-afternoon in Matera. The city has a very unique history with lots of ups and downs. At times it was a regional capital and very wealthy and then fell into decay and became one of the poorest areas of Italy. The Sassi di Matera (ancient town) is full of caves where for most of the 20th century people still lived in dire conditions. Today it has become a tourist destination, with the city once again very proud of its heritage. While we were there, the city was currently one of “Europe’s Capital of Culture”.

View of the Sassi
View of the Sassi

We stayed at the edge of the newer part of town, a few minutes from the Sassi. It takes a bit of time to get a sense of orientation as the Sassi slopes downwards from the newer city center.

Matera
Matera

It is very unique place to wander around and get lost in the countless steps and stairs around the Sassi.

Basilica Pontificia Cattedrale di Maria Santissima della Bruna e Sant'Eustachio
Basilica Pontificia Cattedrale di Maria Santissima della Bruna e Sant’Eustachio

To get up to speed on the history of Matera, make sure to visit the Casa Noha for a very well made documentary.

You can still visit some of the caves and see for yourself in what conditions people lived in Matera right into the 20th century:

Casa Grotta nei Sassi
Casa Grotta nei Sassi

While we were in Matera there was a large Salvador Dalí exhibition inside the Madonna delle Virtù church:

Salvador Dalí sculpture
Salvador Dalí sculpture
Salvador Dalí sculpture
Salvador Dalí sculpture
Matera at night
Matera at night

Matera and the Sassi will be featured in the upcoming James Bond movie “No Time to Die”.

We had yet another very good dinner for the last time on this trip and wrapped up a wonderful 10 days in the region. Matera was conveniently on the way to Napoli, where we departed from. So the next day, we got ready and drove the roughly three hours to Italy’s third largest city. After a lunch stop in Trevico, we made it to the airport for our flight back home.

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Ostuni https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/ostuni/ https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/ostuni/#comments Sat, 25 Jan 2020 09:24:43 +0000 http://www.gowiththeflo.asia/?p=2783 From Sternatia and Lecce we headed back up north into Brindisi province for our next base, Ostuni. We stayed there for another three nights and explored the charming town and the surrounding area. Apparently in peak season the city’s population can swell up from 32’000 people to over 100’000. We were there off-peak and it was already somewhat crowded, so I don’t want to know what summer peak will look like.

Ostuni
Ostuni

The Old Town is built ontop of a couple of hills. Wandering through the mostly car-free alleys is fascinating with most buildings being white-washed and in immaculate shape. Every now and then you find a hidden restaurant with gorgeous views towards the Adriatic Sea. And while pretty much all restaurants cater only to tourists, we never felt ripped off. Service was consistently good and value for money as well. No horror stories like you hear from the Italian hotspots of Rome, Venice or Florence.

One morning we followed a beautiful hike nearby that we found online. It took us through the olive tree plantations, which is one of the main industries in the region.

Hike near Monte Pizzuto
Hike near Monte Pizzuto
Hike near Monte Pizzuto
Hike near Monte Pizzuto

The nearby town of Cisternino is worth a stop as well. We passed by during the quiet lunch hours and felt like we almost had the Centro Storico to ourselves.

Cisternino
Cisternino

Another city that should not be left out on any Puglia itinerary is Martina Franca. Again extremely well preserved, it is a town you should just leave yourself wandering around and get lost in the narrow alleys.

Martina Franca
Martina Franca
Martina Franca
Martina Franca

Martina Franca in Taranto Province was our last stop in Puglia as we drove westwards towards Matera in Basilicata with a stop in Mottola (no tourists there!) for lunch.

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Next Stop: Salento https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/next-stop-salento/ https://www.gowiththeflo.asia/next-stop-salento/#respond Thu, 02 Jan 2020 16:06:53 +0000 http://www.gowiththeflo.asia/?p=2775 After three nights in Monopoli we headed south for our next base in Salento. We briefly considered staying in the region’s capital city of Lecce but again decided for a smaller town, or in this case village, instead. Thanks to another blog, we came across the town of Sternatia with a population of just over 2’000 souls. We didn’t bother reading a lot about the town but instead just booked an apartment and drove south.

Bell Tower of Basilica Pontificia Cattedrale della Visitazione e San Giovanni Battista in Brindisi
Bell Tower of Basilica Pontificia Cattedrale della Visitazione e San Giovanni Battista in Brindisi

After a brief stop for lunch in Brindisi we arrived in Sternatia. It turned out that someone rents out her parent’s house in the center of the city. A beautiful old house all for ourselves. We really got to appreciate the town’s life. We were the only tourists there as far as we could tell and got a good glimpse at Italian small town life in Salento.

Comune di Sternatia
Comune di Sternatia
Sternatia town square
Sternatia town square
Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta in Sternatia
Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta in Sternatia
Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta in Sternatia
Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta in Sternatia
Cimitero comunale di Sternatia
Cimitero comunale di Sternatia

As we did in Monopoli, we used Sternatia as a base to explore the region. We went twice into Lecce, the region’s main city with a beautiful old town. To avoid issues with parking (and enjoy a glass of wine or two), we took the train for one trip. Cheap at 1.75EUR per way and surprisingly reliable and on-time.

Piazza del Duomo in Lecce
Piazza del Duomo in Lecce

Especially the evening stroll through the pedestrian zone in Lecce was beautiful and a really nice atmosphere.

Another day trip took us south to Gallipoli on the Ionian Sea. We enjoyed wandering the narrow alleys, drinking coffee on a terrace and going for a swim while watching the sunset.

Spiaggia della Purità, Gallipoli
Spiaggia della Purità, Gallipoli
Sunset in Gallipoli
Sunset in Gallipoli

Our third and final day trip from Sternatia took us to Otranto and from there south along the SP87 and SP358 towards Castro where half the town was going for a swim. Just beautiful.

Otranto
Otranto
Somewhere between Otranto and Castro
Somewhere between Otranto and Castro
Castro
Castro

Besides the vibe, we really liked Sternatia’s location. All of the above day trips were less than an hour driving away. You could even check the weather in the morning and decide whether you’d want to go for a swim in the Ionian or Adriatic Sea based on the winds.

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