The route would take us along the Tajikistan-China border, through a pass and then beyond into Kyrgzystan towards the country’s second-largest city, Osh.

We started the day early at 6am (Murghab is on Kyrgyzstan time, one hour ahead of Khorog and the rest of Tajikistan).

We first passed the Ak-Baital Pass (4655m), followed by the Kyzyl-Art Pass (4282m) where the Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan border post is located.

Back on the road in no-man’s land

Driving up the Ak-Baital Pass

It got colder and colder

And it was snowing on the Ak-Baital Pass…

…no surprise at that altitude.

Back at (slightly) lower altitude

A yurt offering homestay somewhere in the middle of nowhere between Murghab and Karakul. Probably popular with the many cyclists on the road.

Shortly before Karakul

Driving towards Karakul

On the way from Murghab to Karakul in Tajikistan

Not too much traffic on that day

At one point we were just 8km away from the Chinese border. On the Tajikistan side it was secured with barbed wire.

Barbed wire securing the border between Tajikistan and China

We then drove past Karakul, a lake situated at 3’960m above sea level, slightly higher than Lake Titicaca (3’812m).

Karakul

Karakul

View from Karakul back towards the mountains

Next stop: Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan border

The Tajikistan border was located at the top of the mountain at over 4’000 meters. I could not the most popular spot for a Tajikistan border guard. I was waiting to get stamped out while a Swiss cyclist who has been on the road for a year was waiting to enter the country.

The road then continued for 20km in no-man’s land until we reached the Kyrgyzstan border. I’d like to congratulate Kyrgyzstan for being a role model when it comes to immigration:

• No visa needed at all
• No useless immigration form/card to be filled out
• No stupid questions asked

Just a quick scan of the passport, a stamp and I was in.

Mongol rallye car with four Australians inside, driving on a spare tire with a broken suspension.

Meanwhile other cars were a bit more suitable for the road…

…which wasn’t always in great shape.

Kyrgyzstan border

After a quick lunch in Sary-Tash, we buckled up for the remaining 3-4 hours to Osh.

The scenery changed as we descended into lower pastures

And changed again

Passing truck

We were slowed down by a few road blocks

Can you spot the horse hiding?

We finally made it to Osh at around 4.30pm and I was certainly looking forward to a day without driving. The Pamir Highway was absolutely worth it and I found the people and nature fascinating!

The road condition on the M41 (Pamir Highway) was way better than expected and for the next 300km we cruised along while admiring the scenery.

Pamir Highway (source: Wikipedia)

Also known as the Heroin Highway because of the amounts of drugs smuggled on the route, the highway was built by the Soviets to facilitate quicker movement of troops. It is the second highest altitude international highway in the world (going up to 4655m) – the Karakoram Highway connecting China and Pakistan is higher. Back in 2008 I traveled on the Leh-Manali Highway. While not international, it was significantly higher, going up to 5’328m.

Early morning Khorog-Murghab on the M41 Pamir Highway

Early morning Khorog-Murghab on the M41 Pamir Highway

Early morning Khorog-Murghab on the M41 Pamir Highway

Early morning Khorog-Murghab on the M41 Pamir Highway

“Pedestrians” crossing the M41

Early morning Khorog-Murghab on the M41 Pamir Highway

Early morning Khorog-Murghab on the M41 Pamir Highway

Public transport for people and livestock on the M41 Pamir Highway

Signboard on the M41 Pamir Highway

Ascending to the first pass on the Pamir Highway between Khorog and Murghab, the Koi-Tezek Pass (4272m)

Koi-Tezek Pass

Statue along the M41

Driving towards our lunch stop in Alichur

Driving towards our lunch stop in Alichur

The highest pass we crossed was about 4200 masl. We stopped briefly for pilav in Alichur in the middle of nowhere. It is really a harsh environment these people live in, even during summer. I don’t want to imagine what it is like in winter. We (there was a Japanese tourist driving in another car) talked to a young man from Alichur who spoke very good English. I asked him how they survive the winters there?

A thick jacket and some vodka will save your ass

After lunch we started seeing the first yurts – a sign of the increasingly Kyrgyz population

Yurt along the M41

Soon after we started passing about a dozen Chinese trucks

A very clear “pond” with fish along the M41. We were offered fish for lunch in Alichur but didn’t trust it… turns out, it would have probably been very fresh fish

And for my dear readers I also took an underwater photo

Another yurt

Continuing along the M41 Pamir Highway

Finally in Murghab

We reached Murghab at around 4pm. The town is not scenic at all. I doubt many tourists stop here for more than one night. Together with a Japanese roommate I set off to explore what little Murghab has to offer.

Entering Murghab

The bazaar in Murghab, made up of old containers

Murghab bazaar

Two Kyrgyz men (ethnic Kyrgyz but Tajikistan citizen)

Mosque in Murghab

Building in Murghab reminding me of Greek islands

Truck in Murghab

Locals playing volleyball in Murghab

Car in Murghab

Petrol station (obviously) in Murghab

Our destination for the next day, Osh. Another 417km of driving to Kyrgyzstan.

I initially contemplated spending two nights here but quickly made up my mind to continue the next morning bright and early.